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  Vehicle Chassis - Engine, transmission, axles, brakes, etc.::

Engine protection systems

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Skipmaster on Thursday, April 22, 2004 - 08:35 pm: Edit Post

There are various expensive engine management systems monitoring engine function. Of all the functions the most important is probably overheating the engine which results in megabucks to repair.

Two possible solutions:

1) run a length of tube from the radiator overflow to the lower edge of the windshield (outside of course) The moment the engine boils the driver will need wipers!!

2) Cut a length of say Ø40mm tubing, 60mm long. Blank off one end. The other end is also blanked off but with a treaded hole in its centre matching a universally available VDO temperature switch. These are available in 1/8" and 1/4" threads in various temperature grades. Further weld two nipples onto your canister to match any small hoses on your engine through which water circulates continually, typically manifold heating circuit sometimes even the cab heating circuit. This canister is now welded to the exhaust pipe near the manifold area. It may even be let into the manifold provided it causes minimal restriction. Your previously identified water circuit is cut and the canister is plumbed in series with this circuit. Electrically you connect this switch to a hooter mounted in the drivers cabin. What happens now is that while the engine is running and water is flowing through the canister, the switch remains cool. The moment say a v-belt drops off, circulation stops, the exhaust cooks the canister, the hooter blares and the driver is forced to stop. All this BEFORE the engine has even boiled.

Hope you keep your cool

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Forum Administrator on Thursday, April 22, 2004 - 09:29 pm: Edit Post

Some interesting ideas

Re: welding a canister to the exhaust pipe, wouldn't it be safer to clamp the canister to the pipe? Welding could crack loose and the canister won't boil on the day you want it to.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Skipmaster on Sunday, April 25, 2004 - 08:41 am: Edit Post

Clamping is fine provided one gets enough contact area for heat transfer. Ideally you want to form the canister to match the diameter of the exhaust pipe to say cover one third of its circumference. The possibilities are endless. Another alternative is to bolt the canister to the exhaust manifold if this has a threaded button.


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